11/21/12

Push/Pull/Core/Rings
*Arm Cuff = AC

• AC: Side to Side x1
• AC: L-Sit Twist x1: 10
• Dip: +25 7/8
• L-Sit: 16s/11s
• Archer PU: 7/7
• Fly: 10/9
• Forward Fly: 5
• 60-sec lever: Crunch: 28s/26s/10s

Shoulder

• Inner: R/L x3

Arms

• 10-15s hang: LE x3
• Campus Ladder: .5
•  LE LockOff 3 sec:
• R:4/6
• L:4/5 

• Frenchy's: 1.2/1.2/1

11/20/12

Push/Pull/Core

• Pull Ups: 2 sets
• Push Ups: 2 sets
• A2W: 2 sets

11/19/12

• Hypertrophy: 10 sets

11/18/12

• Climb Outside
• Vantage: 9 Pitches w/Jens

11/17/12

Rest - Sore Core!

11/16/12

• WPU: 3 sets
• Dip: 3 Sets
• A2W: 3 Sets
• Frenchy's: 3 sets
• Push Ups: 3 sets
• Lock Off PU: 2 sets
• 60 sec lever; Tuck Lever: 3 sets: :21, :18, :21

3 week plan, per week, starts today:
Climb outside x1
Rings x1
Push/Pull/Core Series x3
HYP x2
Campus x1
Stretch x3

9/21/12

• Rest Day?
• Home at 8 am from 7 of 8 days working nights, 4 hr nap.

• 170 lbs

9/20

• WPU: 14, +30:5, +25: 6/6
• PULevers: 9/6/6
• Dips +32: 9, +37:6/5
• A2W: 4
• TriPushU: 8

• Work 12.5 hrs

9/19

• HYP Hangboard Workout: 12 sets
• More improvement
• Work 12.25 hrs

9/18

• Work 4 hrs
• Signed up for benefits!!

9/17

• 3 pitches at Nason w/ Aaron, Fiddle, and Yuki
• 11a, 11d, 12aFail
• So humid, greasy, and smokey!

9/16

• Work 12.5 hrs

9/15

• Work 12.5 hrs

9/14

• HYP Hangboard: 12 sets
• Improvement
• Work 12.5 hrs

9/13

• Work 1st night shift: 12.5 hrs

9/12

• ???

9/11

• HYP Hangboard Workout: 10 sets
• Psyched to start a new cycle

9/10

• 34th Birthday
• GITM w/Jens in stormy conditons, classic!
• The Seasons Change on the West Face Wall
• Fell on P1!! Arrghhh, COLD HANDS.

9/8, 9/9

• Rest
• Family time: went to Grandma Blue's 90th bday in Bothell - Congrats Ginny!

9/5-9/7

• Work 13 hrs each day, a bit of training... didn't write it down.

9/4/12

AM 

• 90 minutes of bldrin w/Fiddle up Icicle - 
• V6x2 (Cruise Conrol), work Shield and Dangle
• 10 WPullU

 PM

• Dip +32: 7/7/6
• LE: 10s/10s/3 rungs
• A2W: 8/8/6

•  SE PullU: 4/5:2/2/1/6:3/2/1
• Ninja Kick: 6/7/4
• TriPushU: 9/9/10

9/3/12

• More Rest
• Day 2 of gorging myself

9/2/12

• Rest Day
• Kelly and Courtney Wedding - Congrats!

9/1/12

• Let it Burn on CBR w/ Adam Lawson
• AMAZING Route, nice job Max and Jens, one of the best in the state.
• Fell on 12a pitch, both 11+ pitches: that beast is STOUT!
• Psyched to go back ASAP.

8/31/12

• Rest Day

8/30/12

• Work 12.5 hrs

8/29/12

• Work 13 hrs

8/28/12

• Work 12.25 hrs
• 169.2
• PullULevers: 8/6/7
• WPullU: 9

8/27/12

• Bldr for 2 hours (still kinda sore)
• PullU: LE8/SE4/SE2/LE6/LE4
• 168.2

8/26/12

• Rest Day - DOMS in full effect!

8/25/12

• Rest Day - so sore, totally/completely/absolutely worked!
• Tomato Days Party in SeaTown - stayed awake all the way til 1030 (party animal!).

8/24/12

• DOE Free!!!
• Finally, the monkey is off my back. Sent DOE today with Adam Lawson on my sixth adventure up the route. The training both physically and mentally paid off big time. So psyched!!  I took one fall on the crux, lowered, pulled the rope, and fired it second go. Crushed the last pitch first try and hooted and hollered my way to the top of the headwall. I will never forget the feeling on top of the headwall, so fortunate and stoked to be able to send adventurous 5.12 traditional routes high in the mtns. What a wild and valuable process it has been. Yee-haw!

8/23/12

• Rest Day
• 169.2

8/22/12

• Work 13 hrs
• Watched and Open Heart Surgery - WOW!

8/21/12

• Work 12.5 hrs

8/20/12

• 169.8

• Family cragging at Index w/ Ginnie, Ayla, Fiddle, Gus, Mack, Sara, Chris, and Nevada.
• 5p: 10d, 10d, 11c, 11c, 11d
• Flashed Spooner, 11d. Awesome Route! 

•  PullU Levers: 6/6/6
• LE PullU: 5/4/6
• A2W: 4

8/19/12

• Rings
• Ninja Kick: 8/6/7
• Dip +32: 5/5 +28:7
• TriPushU (no rings): 11/10/12
• L-Sit: 20s/10s
• Crunch Ball +10: 7

• Campus 
• Easy Ladder: x1/x1/x1.8
• 5-9-11 L/R: x2
• Hard Ladder: x1(felt easy!)
• Hared Ladder Bottom Rung: 10L/10L
• 5-9-10-9-10 L/R: 9/10/9
• LE PullU: 5
• SE-->LE PullU: 2/2 

• Hangboard
• PullU to Lever: 6/6/3
• A2W: 4
• WPullU +30: 6/6 +25: 6

8/18/12

• 168.2 (Yee-Haw, 3.2 lbs to go)
• 2 hr bouldering up icicle (HOT!!!)
• V6: One Armed Baby
• WPullU: 13

8/17/12

• Work 12.5 hrs
• 169.2

8/16/12

• Work 13.25 hrs
• 169.8

8/15/12

• Work 12.5 hrs
• 170.2

8/14/12

• First day of Daddy Daycare while the wifey goes to teacher training
• 169.2 (lightest yet, one day to drop 4.2lbs and reach my 8/15 goal of 165..)
• Wide Pull-Up: 16 +25:6/7 +30:5
• 5 min PU Metolius LE: 8/4/4/3/x

8/13/12

• Dragons of Eden w/ Adam Lawson (5th time on the route)
• While my ambitions to send the crux pitches did not materialize, I am happy with my ascent and view it as a good training run.  The mental game shut me down, too scared to whip on small pro in grainy rock, high in the mtns...  Gonna focus some efforts on reading, "The Rock Warriors Way" by Arno Illgner again, and some big falls trad climbing at Index. Gonna keep training hard and watching my weight. The icicle ridge trail runs had a clear and positive impact on my ascent as I felt fresh on the summit and actually jogged back to the car. Adam did awesome, onsighted the middle headwall pitch for his first 11- trad onsight. Way to go Adam!!  I've got lots of beta, see below. Gonna giver again as soon as possible, A muerte!!
• P2: 11b/c fingercrack, get a high piece from the right ledge in the fingercrack section (.5/orange tcu) then push to the beginning of the pod: place yellow alien, into the pod: there is a good foot jam just below the pod/.75, crux leaving the pod: use the feet just above the pod, right hand crimp, left hand layback staying on right side of crack, decent food pod just above the big pod, push on thru thin hands to stem.
• P4: 12a fingercrack. green brassie and alien from pillar top. 
• Boulder problem:  Right foot good edge-Left foor pillar-Right hand side pull-Left hand side pull (the higher side pull, not as good as the lower). Pull on-Left foot dark slab/smear, right hand pinch. Left foot jam, left hand insecure/flared thin hand jam. Right food hidden ticked edge/pocket, right hand finger jam near horizontal edge.
• Yellow tcu.
• Punch up to beginning of corner using good jams, small right feet, med left footedges.
• Yellow alien.
• Push into corner, green alien.
• Punch it above your gear with very small feet until able to jam left foot in corner, jams get shitty here (no bottlenecks for jams) turn body to right layback and dead-point to bottleneck jam (crux move), keep pushing until stance in corner above bulge, left foot on good smear right of corner.
• Relax and place good piece: yellow alien.
• Push further up corner, fighting when need to, keeping hands close by and minimizing crosses, green/yellow/red alien.
• Keep punching, stay relaxed, run it a bit more than a body length and FIGHT!!
• Blue tcu above finger jug.
• Right hand good finger jam near blue tcu, Left hand arete hold. Left foot dance move smear. Right foot top of finger jug. Left foot arete.
• Mantle
• P7: 11d final head wall pitch
• Good jugs and feet off belay
• Red Camalot on left side.
• Move into flare with crappy jams. When they get real crappy pinch and stab at flakes on right. Eventually get bomber thank-god finger jam on right. Place yellow tcu just under finger jam.
• Mantel flare using foot jams and ok left hand finger locks above pillar.
• Up to flake wideness. #3 at base of steep bulge splitter. Reach up and place .75. With good hand jam get a decent right foot kneebar and place high yellow alien.
• Back down to rest.
• Pull into bulge using right hand jam and big move to left hand pinch on flake. Step feet up right under bulge and fire right hand to good edge. left foot jam in crack left hand edge, stand up, fire to undercling tooth flake. STAY PSYCHED, it's almost over. Campus feet up to ok edges. Thank god jug on top of  flake.
• Keep on firing above gear to flared hand jam. Yellow camalot.
• Move up then left to finish, staying calm on decent edges.
• Hoot and Holler!!!

*Just a few offset nuts needed, no purple tcu.

8/12/12

• Rest Day
• 170.4 - better... (stopped drinking beer)
• 30 min walk w/wifey
• River swim w/ the fam

8/11/12

• NCLEX-RN in Seattle - fingers crossed...
• Rest Day - light stretching

8/10/12

• 172.4
• Boulder 2.5 hrs at Swiftwater w/Fiddle
• Felt weak and heavy 
• Building a home wall ASAP
• Trail run 64 min at ski hill w/Fiddle
• 5 min LE PU: 8/6/5/3/5
• McColl PULevers: 6/5/4
• PU +25: 5/5 +20:4

8/9/12

• 173.6
• Work 13 hrs

8/8/12

• 174.6 aarrgghhh
• Warm up jog 8 minutes

Core

• A2W: 10/6
• PU: 15/16
• Roller (Incline): 5/5

• Metolius 10min easy (felt hard!!)
• Frustrating all around...

8/7/12

• Work 7 hours
• Trail run 40 minutes on Canal w/Coral

8/6/12

• 170.4
• Trail-run 40 minutes on canal w/Fiddle

8/5/12

• Work 12.5 hrs

8/4/12

• Work 13 hrs

8/3/12

• Boulder 4 hrs up Icicle w/ Geoff, Fiddle, Shaun and his lady
• Project: Twister, Jerry Garcia, Musashi, Resurrection
• Fun to get out and proj w/Geoff

• Lake Wenatchee w/the family

• Hangboard: 5 sets (Eva Lopez timings)
• SE: +25/10s, +25/8s, +20/10s, +20/8s, +15/10s

8/2/12

• 59 min Trail run up Icicle Ridge w/Fiddle
• Pre breakfast, felt worked to start, kept strong pace throughout, siked on performance.
• Up: 34:53 (PR?)
• Rest: 3 min
• Down: 23:48

• Work 4 hrs

8/1/12

• Work 12.75 hrs

7/31/12

• 169.4
• 2.5 hrs bldrin up icicle w/Rob
• Core felt good, didn't send nuthin..

7/30/12

• 170.6
• Train Run - Icicle Ridge - 1hr 2min + 2min rest
• Up: 36:55 (Psyched! Goal: sub 30min)
• Rest: 2:00
• Down:25:09

7/29/12

AM

• 4 p @ Drip w/ Chris: 11a, 11a, 12d, 12d

PM

• Light Core (still sore from fri..)
• A2W: 8/6/6
• Push-Ups (Rings): 16/16/15
• Ab-Roller: (Knees)20/21/8(!!)
• Need to build incline

• Repeaters
• SE: +0, 3sets, 7s/6s/5s
• -> +5

7/28/12

• 169.6 - starting to feel skinny
• SORE!!!
• Rest Day

7/27/12

• 172
• 2.5 hours bouldering up icicle w/Fiddle

Shoulders

• Inner x2
• Side: 11/13
• Front: 14/10
• Press: 14/13

Rings/Core

• A2W: 9/7/4
• L-sit Twist: 12/9/6
• Dip: +20/12, +25/7/7
• L-Sit: 7s, 8s
• Fly: 10/8
• Roller Knee: 7/7
•  Push Up: 10/14
• Horizontal PU
• Front Grip: 11/9
• Side Grip: 9/9

Campus

• Easy Ladder: x1
• 5-9-5: 6/4
• Doubles (Attempts): x3
• Hard Ladder: x3

Fingers

• Small Edge Lock-Offs +10: 7s/8s/7s/6s/7s
• DeadHangs: +30/8s, +35/2s, +30/6/6

7/26/12

• 172.2
• 63 min trail run - pre-b

7/25/12

• 50 min trail run: pre-breakfast
• Wide-grip PU: 13
• Metolius 10min Hangboard Workout:
• Easy 10min
• Hard 5min
• Hard 5min
• Ankles to Wrists: 3 sets: 9/6/5

7/24/12

• Home from the hospital with the fam
  • Rest and recover

7/23/12

• Joined Team Dad!!
• Ayla Jo Wertkin Blue born at 1:38
• 8 lb 2 oz, 21 inch long, APGAR 9

7/22/12

• 30 min trail run - pre-breakfast glycogen burner
• Drip wall session w/Jon - foiled by contractions!
• Back labor push-press
• 1 min on 3 min off for 10 hours
•  No sleep for time

7/21/21

• 171.6
• Wifey requested Rest Day
• Daddy-to-be chores, river time w/the dog and wifey

7/20/12

• 171.6 lbs
• 2 hrs bouldering in am w/ Shaun and Blake
• V6 (Holex x3: Single session MasterPoint)
• 3p @ Drip Wall pm w/ Jon: 11a, 11a, 12d
• Surprisingly good fitness on Ruthless after 4-5 weeks off, felt light. Crux moves reminded me where my finger injury occurred... worked on alternate crux beta, reachy...

7/19/12

• 12.5 hrs work
• 172.6 lbs

7/18/12

• Work 13.5 hrs
• Bodyweight: 171.6 lbs
• Goal 8/15: 165 lbs

7/17/12

• Index w/ Blake, 6p: 9, 11c, 12a, 12a, 12d, 11d
• 1 fall Iron Horse Full on TR - Psyched!
• Progress on Numbah Ten
• WORKED on Jap Gardens to 10 Percent

7/16/12

• 2 hour bouldering: V5 (Sail stand start), V6(Hole)

7/15/12

• Work 13 hours

7/14/12

• Index w/ Blake: 6p: 10a, 11c, 11c, 12b, 12a, 12c
• Flash full Model Worker 11c 
• Worked silly on everything else
• Psyched to project Iron Horse (my nemesis), Stern Farmer, Numbah Ten

7/13/12

• Boulder 2 hours
• Campus
• Light Core
• Work 4 hours
• Mow the lawn/weedwack for time

7/12/12

• Work 5 hours
• Run 35 min

7/11/12

• Work 8 hour
• Run 30 min

7/10/12

• Work 12.5 hours

7/9/12

• Run 35 min

7/8/12

• Anniversary trip to Seattle 

7/7/12

• Run 40 min

7/6/12

• Work 13 hours

7/5/12

• Recover from the flu

7/4/12

• Ill with the flu

7/3/12

• Ill with the flu - Temp 101.6

7/2/12

• Ill with the flu - Temp: 102.2

7/1/12

• CBR basin to Enchantment Pk Summit (8,520 ft)
• Enchantment Pk to Aasgard Pass/Spineless Prow
• 3rd ascent of The Valkyrie with Shaun and Ryan - 6p/5.10+/OS
• Descent to car - 6 miles

6/30/12

• West Face CBR w/Shaun (4th ascent) - 8p, 5.10/C2 (Wet!!)

6/29/12

• Work 5 hours

• Approach CBR - 5 miles/ 3,000+ ft

6/24/12

- 25 min trail run
- 4 mile hike w/ the wifey
- 2.5 hrs bouldering icicle
- Ankles to Wrists x3: 8/6/3

Campus Board:

• Easy Ladder x1
• 5-9-5 x1
• Hard Ladder x 3
• 5-9-11 x2
• 5-9-10-9-10... x1

Shoulder:

• Inner x2
• Front x2
• Side x2
• Press +40 x2: 13/11

Rings:

• L-Sit Twist x2: 12/10
• Dips +20 x2: 9/8
• Fly x1: 9
• Push Up x1: 11
• L-Sit x1

Deadhangs:

• Small Edge +20: 11s
• Small Edge +25: 8s
• Small Edge +30: 6s

6/23/12

- 50 minute trail run
- 3 pitches at NR: 10c, 10d, 11d
- 5 Minute Finish: 6s x 5 PU = 30PU (2 SE, 4 ME)