Thursday, May 22, 2014

5/22/14

Been a long time since I posted, hard to keep up with it. Trained hard through the end of the winter, finished the HYP/hangboard phase and transitiioned to indoor bouldering and campusing, then outdoor bouldering and just now getting into PE and routes.

Great spring season with a number of projects completed:
  • Rode North Face of Mt Maude
  • Rode Ulrichs Couloir on Mt Stuart
  • Resurrection V8 (nemesis)
  • The Shield V7 (longest nemesis ever)
  • Between the Legs V6 (one session in a light rain)
  • The Hoarder V7
  • Musashi V9 (so rad!)
  • Rainshadow Direct 12c (2nd ascent, got it in 3 sessions total)


Just got the Anderson brothers new training guide, very well done. First step:  short-term, intermediate, and long-term goals.

Short Term: 

  • Immortal Techniques V9
  • Coffee Cup V9
  • Satanic Verses 10d
  • Resend The Nose 10d
  • Hangdog 11b
  • Resend Rainbow Connection 11b/c
  • Zweibles 12b
  • Ruthless 12d/13a
  • Tootharolla 12c
  • Natural Log Cabin 11d
  • Bat Skins Full 12b
  • Narrow Arrow Direct 12d
  • Resend Der Sportsman 11d
  • Let it Burn 12a
  • Independence Route 12a
  • Resend Thin Red Line 12c
  • FFA Mimir's Price 12a/b

Intermediate:
  • Thunderdome V10
  • Superman V10
  • Supercrack 12c
  • Rockarolla 13a
  • Crystal Method 13 a/b
  • Narrow Arrow Overhang 13a
  • Project DD
  • Project SC
  • Project CR
  • Free Vanishing Point 12b Mt Baring
  • Link West Face CBR into DOE or Der
  • Direct North Buttress Middle Cathederal 10d
  • Steck-Salathe 10d
  • Redpoint Astroman 11c


Long Term
  • The Practitioner V11
  • Never Ever Crack 12d/13a
  • Chronic 13b
  • Green Dragon 12d
  • Onsight Rainbow Wall 12a
  • Onsight Sheer Lunacy 12a
  • Moonlight Buttress 12c
  • Link Let it Burn to DOE to Der
  • Project EF
  • NIAD
  • Onsight Reg Route Half Dome 12b
  • Westie Face Leaning Tower 13a
  • Free Rider El Cap13a

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

2/17/14

Ski Stevens front country with Ginnie Jo for 3 hours. Blownout Presidents' Day pow day, both Snoq and Crystal were closed. Took Ginnie Jo down Wild Katz first run. She cried. Whoops!

Friday, February 14, 2014

2/14/14

  • Repeaters 14sets, Workout #8
  • 1 arm Negatives: -20/-25/-25/-25/-30

2/10/14

Early AM
  • Repeaters 14s, Workout #7 (psyched on the pre-ski hangboard workout).
Front and Sidecountry
  • Skiied in bounds on sleeper pow day started solo then rode with Keri and Joe
    • First tracks down Wild Katz
    • First tracks down Pro Chute
  • Slackcountry with Joey T, Max, and Aaron
    • Splitboarded, first time on a lift with a snowboard in over a year

2/9/14

Backcountry day on Skyline with Aaron, Fiddle,  and Yuki. Windy and blowing but we found some good pow.
  •  Middle Triple, scoped out kool chute for the future.
  • Frontside of Skyline, ramp next to bowl skiier's left of the Diving Board.

2/3/14

The single best backcountry splitboard day I have had at Stevens Pass. Cold, blower, stable snow, light to moderate wind, good friends Chris Petry and Joey T to share the day with me.

  • Run 1: Up Skyline to Middle Triple
  • Run 2: Up Heather Ridge to summit off backside to Angry Face
  • Run 3: Back up to the summit off Frontside to incredible pillow run down Happy Face
  • Run 4: Back up to the summit, traverse tech ridge to the best line i've ridden at Stevens AK47/RK47/Squirrel Tree, so sick, got to lay first tracks down this best and stomped it. Been looking at this one since I moved east 6 years ago
  • Run 5: down the valley in split-ski mode to Lichtenberg, up west face to summit to false summit, shredded the South Face in good pow to the valley floor in the twilight, won't forget that day for quite a while.

1/31/14

Dont know quite what happened between 1/23 and 1/31, quit blogging for a sec... but


1/26: Splitboard Easton Glacier descent on Mt. Baker with Ryan and Tyree. Great day, not so great snow. Main objective was South Couloir of Colfax Pk, but conditions were too hard. Amazing snomoing that high up Mt. Baker.

1/31/14:
  • Ski Front and Sidecountry all day
  • One hour Hard Bouldering (felt poor, the dreaded cold came on)..

Thursday, January 23, 2014

1/23/14


  • Repeaters: 14sets
    • Sixth workout and I'm +20-30lbs for most grips

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

1/22/14


  • PU: 13/10
  • Negative 1 arms: -25/-20/-15/-20/-20
  • A2W: 9/7/7

1/21/14


  • Hard bouldering outside for 4 hours
    • Close on Resurrection
    • Nice progress on Twister

1/17/14


  • Repeaters: 14sets
  • Lever Training: 32s, 28s, 15s

Thursday, January 16, 2014

1/16/14


  • Hard Bldrin outside for 3 hours 
    • Felt light and strong
    • Almost got Resurrection!
    • Tried The Prism for the first time, siked.
    • Compiled my: Bouldering Goals for 2014
  • A2W: 10/9/7
  • WPU +15: 7/7/6
  • Lever Crunch: 34s, 22s, 16s

1/15/14


  • Slackcounry for 4 hours (skiied cowboy ridge in challenging conditions)
  • Hard Bldrin indoors for 60 mins

1/12/14

Front/Slackcountry skiing for 7 hours. Best day of the year.

1/11/14

Shoulder feels a bit tweaked so, no climbing for a few days..
  • Splitboard tour for 3 hours

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

1/8/14


  • AM: Splitboard tour for 4 hours
  • PM: Repeaters 13sets 
    • 5th workout in block
    • Most grips have improved +15lbs since block began

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

1/7/14


  • Ring Dips +20: 7/7/8
  • Flys: 8/8/6
  • Front Shoulder +10: 7/9
  • Side Shoulder +10: 9/8
  • Ring Push Ups: 11/8/5

Monday, January 6, 2014

1/6/14


  • Repeaters: 14sets
  • 1-arm PU: 
    • -45 .75/.75
    • -50 .75/.75
    • -55 2sets
  • WPU Med Edge +10: 6/5/3
  • A2W: 6 (too worked to hang on my arms)
  • Reverse Wrist Curls: 3sets R/L 

1/1/14

Sno-mo access Ski Touring @ WA Pass

12/30/13

After 6 days of the flu barely managed:


  • Hard Bldrin: 90 mins
  • 1-Arm PU: -50 3s R/L