8/13/12

• Dragons of Eden w/ Adam Lawson (5th time on the route)
• While my ambitions to send the crux pitches did not materialize, I am happy with my ascent and view it as a good training run.  The mental game shut me down, too scared to whip on small pro in grainy rock, high in the mtns...  Gonna focus some efforts on reading, "The Rock Warriors Way" by Arno Illgner again, and some big falls trad climbing at Index. Gonna keep training hard and watching my weight. The icicle ridge trail runs had a clear and positive impact on my ascent as I felt fresh on the summit and actually jogged back to the car. Adam did awesome, onsighted the middle headwall pitch for his first 11- trad onsight. Way to go Adam!!  I've got lots of beta, see below. Gonna giver again as soon as possible, A muerte!!
• P2: 11b/c fingercrack, get a high piece from the right ledge in the fingercrack section (.5/orange tcu) then push to the beginning of the pod: place yellow alien, into the pod: there is a good foot jam just below the pod/.75, crux leaving the pod: use the feet just above the pod, right hand crimp, left hand layback staying on right side of crack, decent food pod just above the big pod, push on thru thin hands to stem.
• P4: 12a fingercrack. green brassie and alien from pillar top. 
• Boulder problem:  Right foot good edge-Left foor pillar-Right hand side pull-Left hand side pull (the higher side pull, not as good as the lower). Pull on-Left foot dark slab/smear, right hand pinch. Left foot jam, left hand insecure/flared thin hand jam. Right food hidden ticked edge/pocket, right hand finger jam near horizontal edge.
• Yellow tcu.
• Punch up to beginning of corner using good jams, small right feet, med left footedges.
• Yellow alien.
• Push into corner, green alien.
• Punch it above your gear with very small feet until able to jam left foot in corner, jams get shitty here (no bottlenecks for jams) turn body to right layback and dead-point to bottleneck jam (crux move), keep pushing until stance in corner above bulge, left foot on good smear right of corner.
• Relax and place good piece: yellow alien.
• Push further up corner, fighting when need to, keeping hands close by and minimizing crosses, green/yellow/red alien.
• Keep punching, stay relaxed, run it a bit more than a body length and FIGHT!!
• Blue tcu above finger jug.
• Right hand good finger jam near blue tcu, Left hand arete hold. Left foot dance move smear. Right foot top of finger jug. Left foot arete.
• Mantle
• P7: 11d final head wall pitch
• Good jugs and feet off belay
• Red Camalot on left side.
• Move into flare with crappy jams. When they get real crappy pinch and stab at flakes on right. Eventually get bomber thank-god finger jam on right. Place yellow tcu just under finger jam.
• Mantel flare using foot jams and ok left hand finger locks above pillar.
• Up to flake wideness. #3 at base of steep bulge splitter. Reach up and place .75. With good hand jam get a decent right foot kneebar and place high yellow alien.
• Back down to rest.
• Pull into bulge using right hand jam and big move to left hand pinch on flake. Step feet up right under bulge and fire right hand to good edge. left foot jam in crack left hand edge, stand up, fire to undercling tooth flake. STAY PSYCHED, it's almost over. Campus feet up to ok edges. Thank god jug on top of  flake.
• Keep on firing above gear to flared hand jam. Yellow camalot.
• Move up then left to finish, staying calm on decent edges.
• Hoot and Holler!!!

*Just a few offset nuts needed, no purple tcu.